Information

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**Below are some helpful tips, terms, and information that can help to better the life of you rabbit!**



Top 10 Supplies You Need to get Started



 1. Cage
     The cage is one of the most  important things you need when you get a rabbit. It not only ensures that your rabbit won't get into trouble while you are away, but it can be a since of security for you rabbit.
       Cages come in an large of array sizes and shapes. From ones that are made for outdoors and ones that are made for indoors. Be sure to choose one that can be easily cleaned and roomy enough that your rabbit has plenty of space to run around. Your rabbit's cage need to be at least 28" in. by 18"in. But the bigger the better! Rabbits are best kept indoors, as the temperature is more constant then outdoors. If you do keep your rabbit outdoors, be sure that the cage is kept in the shade at all times and a fan is blowing on them in the summer; and in the winter be sure to keep them out of the wind, and give them something to nestle down into.


 2. Food Dish
    There is a wide variety of food dishes. We use ceramic crocks.
When you purchase your rabbit's food dish remember to get something that your rabbit can't knock over.  So either get one that can hook on the side of the cage or one that is heavy enough that your rabbit can't knock over.


 3. Water Bottle or Dish
    For water, you can either use a rabbit "water bottle" or you can use a ceramic dish. We use the ceramic dishes, though water bottles are best for inside bunnies/rabbits. 


 4. Food
    For food, there are as many varieties of food as there are different bunnies! Be sure to choose one that isn't too high in protein but is high in fiber. Rabbits also need lots of veggies in their diet as well as pellets.
(see below - good and bad veggies for rabbits)

 
5. Brush
   The brush is one of the easiest things to get. We use a regular rabbit comb. But any "small animal" comb or brush is fine.


6. Nail Clippers
   Nail clippers are easy to get too. We use "small animals" clippers.


 7. Resting Mat
   A resting mat is important to the health of your rabbit. It gives your rabbit somewhere to get his/her feet off the wire of the bottom of their cage, to prevent sore hocks. If your rabbit's cage doesn't have a wire bottom or you let your rabbit run around your room/house you don't need a resting mat.


 8. Hay
   Hay is necessary for the health of your rabbit. Timothy hay is the best, but it can be pricy. If that is the case you can use Fescue hay.


9. Toys 
   Toys help keep your rabbit entertained! Rabbits need things to chew on as well as push around. If you keep your rabbit entertained with toys you won't have to worry about them chewing your furniture! You don't have to get anything fancy. Just some cardboard boxes are fine. Also, apple wood branches are also good for chewing. Wooden blocks, willow balls, and willow rings are all good toys for your rabbit.


 10. Time to Spend Loving your Rabbit!!
     You need to have time to love your Rabbit!! Rabbits can live to be 8-11 years old if well taken care of. So when buying a rabbit be sure that you are going to be able to spend 8-11 years with your lovable bunny/rabbit.




Vegetables and Fruits that are good for your rabbit



Vegetables                                                    Fruit        

Vegetables that are bad for your Rabbit



Do not feed!!

Veggies that can cause gas or are very sugary:

 
Green beans

White and red potato

Beets

Fresh corn

Fresh  peas

Veggies that are dangerous, and contain compounds that destroy nutrients:

Sweet potato

Cassava

Bamboo shoots

Maize

Lima beans

Millet

Bracken fern

Tea leaves

Coffee plants

Veggies that contain dangerous toxins:
 

Rhubarb leaves

Raw lima, kidney, or soy beans

Onions (raw or cooked)

Citrus peels
 

Veggies that can cause impaction:
 

Whole seeds

Nuts

Grains

Dried corn

Dried peas
 

Things to watch out for:

¨      Carrots and root vegetables are high in sugar and may cause cecal problems or gas in some rabbits.

¨      Celery and rhubarb stalks contain strings that should be removed before feeding. Alternatively, cut the stalk into pieces.

Iceberg lettuce has a reputation for causing diarrhea in rabbits.

How Much to Feed your Rabbit

What quantities of food should I feed Babies and “Teenagers”?

• Birth to 3 weeks—mother’s milk

• 3-4 weeks—mother’s milk, nibbles of  hay and pellets

• 4-8 weeks—mother’s milk, access to hay and pellets

• 8 weeks to 7 months—unlimited pellets, unlimited hay (plus see 12 weeks below)

• 12 weeks—introduce Vegetables (one at a time, quantities under ½ oz.)

What quantities of food should I feed a young adult? (7 months to 1 year)

• Decrease pellets to ½ cup per 6 lb. body weight  and unlimited  hay

• Increase daily vegetables gradually

• Fruit:  no more than 4-6 TBSP per week, per 6 lbs. body weight (because of calories)

What quantities of food should I feed mature adults? (1 to 5 years)

• Unlimited  hay

• ½ cups of pellets per 6 lbs. body weight

• Minimum 2 cups chopped vegetables per 6 lbs. body weight weekly

• Fruit no more than 4-6 TBSP per week, per 6 lb. body weight

What quantities of food should I feed senior rabbits? (Over 6 years)

• If  sufficient  weight  is  maintained,  continue  adult  diet

• Frail, older rabbits may need unrestricted pellets to keep weight up. Alfalfa can be given
  to under weight rabbits, only if calcium levels are normal.
   

If I feed fewer pellets, how do I compensate?

When you feed a lower quantity of pellets, you must replace the nutritional value without the calories, which is done by increasing the veggies. Also a variety of hay and straw must be encouraged all day long; we do this by offering fresh hay couple of times a day.



Rabbit Terms



Doe - Female Rabbit

Buck - Male Rabbit

Dam - Mother Rabbit

Sire - Father Rabbit

Jr./Junior - Rabbit under 6 months of age

Sr./Senior - Rabbit over the age of 6 months of age

Kit - Baby Rabbit (under 8 weeks of age)

HL - Holland Lop

DH - Dwarf Hotot

LH - Lionhead

ND - Netherland Dwarf

F1 - First Generation Hybrid

F2 - Second Generation Hybrid

F3 - Third Generation Hybrid

PB - Purebred Rabbit

SM - Signal Mane (Lionheads only)

DM - Double Mane (Lionheads only)

ARBA - American Rabbit Breeders Association

NALRC - North American Lionhead Rabbit Club

ANDRC - American Netherland Dwarf Rabbit Club

Ear # - Tattooed number inside the left ear of a rabbit for identification

Charlie - A very lightly colored rabbit (less then 10% coloring). Both parents have to be broken colored to produce a "Charlie"

False Charlie - A very lightly colored rabbit (less then 10% coloring). One parent was solid and the other was broken colored. False "Charlie's" do not have the same genetics as a true "Charlie"

Litter - A group of Kits born to the same Doe

Kindle - When a Doe has her Kits

Proven Doe - A Doe that has successfully kindled a litter and has raised them to 8 weeks of age

Proven Buck - A Buck that has successfully sired a litter

Semi-Proven Doe - A Doe that has kindled a litter but has not raised them. Either due to stillborn kits or her inexperience in mothering.

Nest Box - Where the Doe kindles her litter

Stillborn - A Kit that was born lifeless at birth